Pyrenees, October 2026 −  Travels −  Captain Tom

Pyrenees, October 2026

Back to the Pyrenees after a two-year break. Once again, it was the season finale in October, and once again with Marcellus and Extreme Tours.

The weather wasn’t so kind this time around. Lots of rain and even a bit of cold on the last day.

But the scenery, the food, and the company of friends more than made up for it.

On the last day, we also added a spectacular gorge—one we’d never seen before—to the tour.

Six wonderful days of riding, compared to a total of five days for travel to and from the destination. But all in all, I can say it was worth it.

1The Participants

We planned the trip for 8 participants. However, on the morning of the first day, Achim decided to head back because of the extremely bad weather. So there are 7 of us.
Five of us are riding motorcycles, and two are driving cars.

Wolfgang, Tom, Hartmut, Michi Sr., Michi Jr., Marcellus, Beat
Here are the five motorbike riders
I go on all the rides with Michi Jr. Michi Sr. sometimes rides with us and sometimes with Marcellus and Beat
Marcellus and Beat are riding as the second group and are taking Michi Sr. along on some of the routes.
Beat, Michi Sr., Marcellus
2All Pictures

As always, I've compiled all the pictures into a video
3Getting There

A very tedious undertaking. First, I drive just under 700 kilometers to Michi Sr.’s place. There, I load the motorcycle onto the trailer along with those belonging to Michi Jr. and Michi Sr. Then we head on to Marcellus’s place, where his motorcycle is loaded onto the trailer.
The next day, we head on to Switzerland to pick up Beat, and his motorcycle is also loaded onto the trailer as #5. We continue on to the Isère Valley and spend the night at a golf hotel.
On the third day, we head to Perpignan on the Mediterranean Sea. The two Michis travel separately by bus to Perpignan.

I have to leave early so I'll be at Michi Sr.'s place in time to load the trailer
Three motorbikes are already on the trailer
Marcellus is getting his next motorcycle
The last one is Beat.
We meet up with Wolfgang during a stopover at a golf hotel in the Isère Valley after a lengthy—and not entirely planned—city tour of Grenoble
In Canet-en-Roussillon, right on the beach, we check into the hotel and unload the motorcycles
The beach is magnificent, and the Pyrenees beckon in the distance
Of course, I have to test the water
Perpignan Beach in Canet-en-Roussillon
Beach
Catalan, French, and European flags
Beach Promenade
Dinner together. The two Michis aren't here yet, but they'll be joining us later.
A delicious dinner
4Perpignan-Prullans

Today, the big topic was water. A severe rainstorm hit us. It didn’t just rain—it POURED. Even in France, roads were closed due to flooding. The beautiful D914 coastal road in France from Argèles-sur-Mer to the N-260 in Llançà wasn’t much fun in the pouring rain. It was raining heavily in Roses while we were having our morning coffee. So we took a slightly shorter route. Fortunately, the rain stopped around noon, and from then on we only had wet or damp roads.

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It's raining. Deep, dark clouds hang over the sea at sunrise
Achim decides to head home
It's pouring rain
Saint-Cyprien Plage is so flooded that we have to turn around and find another way out of town.
We arrive in Spain
It's pouring rain
In Roses, people are enjoying their morning coffee while the staff is busy mopping up the rain that's seeping in.
This is what it looks like outside the café
The rain is letting up, but the streets remain wet.
Marcellus and Beat took a shortcut and are already having lunch in Prullans
Lunch in Ripoll
It's slowly getting drier on the Collada de Toses
Collada de Toses
In Prullans, the fall weather returned as if nothing had happened.
Prullans in the afternoon
We're taking this opportunity to take a group photo
5Prullans-Benasque

Today: fog and cool temperatures in the morning, followed by sunny weather. No rain except for a few drops in the sunshine. Today there were numerous border crossings: from Spain to France, Spain, France, Andorra, and back to Spain. There were also some great high mountain passes with magnificent views.

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Fog in the morning
After passing through the Spanish enclave of Llivia and re-entering France, we see one of two solar thermal power plants in the distance. We are at an elevation of about 1,500 meters.
The other solar thermal power plant. There's still fog in the valley
Massive horns
A French mountain village
Port de Pailhères
Port de Pailhères - Beautiful fall colors
Port de Pailhères - Drive up the Eastern ramp
After crossing the pass, it's time for morning coffee
On the way to Andorra, we passed a few construction sites. We saw the worker again on our way back on the last day.
Andorra, Pas de la Casa
The Mirador del Roc del Quer observation deck on the Col d'Ordino
Col d'Ordino
Col d'Ordino - View down into the valley toward Ordino
Back in Spain
A lovely Spanish lunch
There's a great view from Port del Cantó
A horse is blocking the way on the Port de la Bonaigua
Road closed, 45-minute wait
Magnificent view of the valley
That evening, Hartmut went a little overboard when ordering beer.
6Benasque Northern Loop Hike

Today was the longest day trip. We headed north to the French side of the Pyrenees. The weather was so-so. It drizzled just before we crossed into France, then stayed dry until just before we reached Spain. Then, on the way back, we encountered wet roads and heavy rain for about 40 kilometers in Spain. We set off through the rugged Ésera Gorge. On the Puerto de Contefablo, the road was covered in cow dung, but there wasn’t a cow in sight. We crossed into France via the Col du Pourtalet. Then came the quartet of classic Tour de France passes: Col d’Aubisque, Col du Soulor, Col du Tourmalet, and Col d’Aspin. For the Col du Tourmalet, we’d arranged with the Armée de l’Air for a low flyover by an A400M. It arrived right on time. Later, on the Col d’Aspin, we came across a herd of white cows, and just before the finish, a fairly large flock of sheep.

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A breakfast buffet in Benasque with a heavy emphasis on sweets
The Ésera Gorge is first on the list
Aínsa
Morning coffee after the Puerto de Contefablo
The first raindrops are falling.
We're heading up to the Col d'Aubisque, the first of four Tour de France mountain passes
Col d'Aubisque
There are a lot of animals running around freely here
From the Col d'Aubisque to the Col du Soulor
The donkey keeps an eye on Beat's lunch
A view looking back from the Col du Tourmalet
An A400M flies by
A time-lapse video taken from the Eastern ramp of the Col du Tourmalet
We're having lunch at a small bar
Beautiful white cows are coming toward us.
View from the Col d'Aspin—the rain is catching up with us.
Heavy rain after the Túnel de Vielha in Spain
Just as we're about to reach our destination, a very large flock of sheep blocks our path.
7Benasque–La Seu d'Urgell

We’re heading to La Seu d’Urgell, about 10 kilometers south of the border with Andorra.
It rained during the night, but the rain had stopped just in time for our departure. At first, the roads were wet. Later, it turned sunny. According to the forecast, it was supposed to rain starting at noon. Fortunately, that wasn’t the case. Only during the last 60 kilometers did we experience heavy rain at times.
A mountain pass was closed in the morning, so we took a significant detour. As a result, our planned 370 kilometers turned into 420. But the roads were beautiful, with rugged cliffs and gorges and great views of mountains and valleys. The paella we’d been looking forward to at the Cantina de Llinars wasn’t available, but we had something else Spanish instead—mashed potatoes, garlic, and fish. In the evening, a funny little alcohol mishap: After the tapas, we’d ordered the mild Spanish herbal liqueur Orujo de Hierbas. It’s about 25 percent alcohol. The owner insisted that we also try the Orujo Blanco. That one, however, packs a serious punch with at least 50 percent alcohol. We made it through.

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We'll pack in the morning
The other group is driving along a small mountain road
We're going to drive through the Ésera Gorge again
Ésera Gorge
The road is closed. We turn back. The other group continues on a long detour, and we meet up again at the same time on the other side in Tremp.
Lots of sheep again
Río Noguera Ribagorçana Gorge
The Coll de Bóixols starts here.
Coll de Bóixols - Barranc del Forat de Bóixols
At the pass
Beat, Michi, Marcellus
We'll continue right away with the curves and the scenery.
View from the Coll de Jou
Lunch at the Cantina de Llinars
La Cantina de Llinars—very unassuming but good
Beautiful weather near Berga
The sky is getting dark at Coll de la Trava
It's raining heavily
At the Coll de la Trava
A rainbow at the Mirador de la Trava
Tapas in La Seu d'Urgell in the evening. The yellow Orujo de Hierbas is already on the table.
8La Seu d'Urgell—Southern Loop Tour

Finally, no rain today and dry roads almost everywhere. It was quite cool, though. We took a southern route. The roads were very empty, quite fast, and winding in the morning. On the 35-kilometer stretch of the Coll de Bóixols, we passed one car and encountered four coming toward us. Plus a handful of cyclists.
In the afternoon, after more fast roads, we tackled the Coll de Merolla. It’s the most winding road I know. Almost no straight stretches—just curve after curve. To finish up, we rode over the Col de la Creueta with a great view of the mountains. Unfortunately, Michi Sr. had to sit this one out because of a cold, but by evening he was feeling somewhat better and was able to join us in search of a nice paella.

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We'll start with the El Segre Gorge
The Coll de Bóixols again, but in the other direction
Coll de Bóixols
Coll de Bóixols
Coll de Bóixols
Morning coffee at the Hotel Cal Petit
The cat wants to be petted...
...and gets it
The hotel is run by the family of Dakar participant and enduro rider Isidre Esteve
A rally bike
A special lunch at Cal Majoral
Lunch
Marcellus and Wolfgang are thrilled
The route continues, among other places, via the Alt de les Llosses
The Coll de Merolla is extremely winding and very challenging
Coll de la Creueta
Mountain Cows
Coll de la Creueta
In the evening, we'll take a big taxi to a restaurant where Marcellus has arranged for us to have paella.
Paella
Dinner
9La Seu d'Urgell–Perpignan

It’s the last day already. We headed back from La Seu d’Urgell to the beach in Perpignan. The weather was beautiful today, but it was freezing cold. Temperatures were very low—just above 0—on the first five high mountain passes. Then we rode a bit more at an altitude of about 1,500 meters, and as we descended, it got warmer.
The Aude Valley toward Quillan was fantastic today, featuring some truly spectacular gorges. But that was nothing compared to the extremely impressive Gorges de Galamus. Extremely deep, extremely rugged—and unexpectedly extremely windy. A great way to end the tour.

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It's very cold
We've seen that one before.
Frost
First snow on the mountains
A small side street
Aude Gorge
Lunch in France
Even more canyons in the Aude Valley
A beautiful avenue of plane trees
Gorges des Galamus
Gorges des Galamus
Gorges des Galamus
Gorges des Galamus
Gorges des Galamus
We did it. The tour is over.
The trailer is being loaded.
In the evening, a beautiful view across the beach in Perpignan toward the Pyrenees
The clouds were beautifully colored in the evening.
Our last dinner together. Hartmut isn't here. He's already on his way north.
10The Journey Home

Another two very grueling days. We set out very early in the morning and are back in Germany late in the evening at Ammersee, at Marcellus' place. The next day, in moderate temperatures and occasional rain, I drive the 700 kilometers back to Berlin on country roads.

We'll leave very early in the morning
Sunrise
Breakfast on the go at a French rest stop
Breakfast
Unload at Beat's place
Empty hop fields early the next morning
Autumn is here
Fall Colors
It rains heavily at times
Back in Berlin
11Summary

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